The Broody Hens Guide

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Knowing When Your Hen is Broody

The first step is to accurately identify if your hen is broody. A broody hen will typically spend more time in the nest box, puff up her feathers, and may growl or cluck when you approach her. Some hens may even peck at you if you try to touch her or the eggs she’s sitting on. Keep in mind that different breeds of hens exhibit varying levels of broodiness. Some breeds are naturally better at incubating and caring for chicks, while others may show less interest in the process.

The signs of a broody hen:

Puffing up feathers with growls or screeching.
Pulling her lower breast/belly feathers out.
Only coming out of the next box once or twice a day.
Makes a distinct clucking sound when outside eating or moving around.
Pecking at other hens or people who get too close to her or her eggs.
Staying in the nesting box for long periods at a time.
Having large and smelly droppings after she gets of her nest.

Breeds known for their strong broody instincts, like Silkie bantams and Cochins, make excellent natural incubators due to their renowned mothering abilities. A broody hen will typically stay in the nest box all day, only leaving briefly to eat, drink, and relieve herself. However, if you have a hen from a breed that rarely goes broody and she becomes broody, be cautious. There’s a risk she may abandon the nest during incubation or leave her chicks while they are still young. In these cases, it’s a good idea to have a backup brooder and incubator ready.

Breaking broodiness:

Taking eggs out of the nesting box every day.
Create a barrier to stop the broody hen from getting into the nesting box(es).
Take her out of the nesting box and put her with the other flock members.
Separate her by putting her into an uncomfortable area with no nesting-like material for a couple days.

Broody Aggression

All broody hens develop some level of aggression to protect their eggs and defend their chicks. Skittish hens prior to becoming broody may display heightened aggression compared to friendlier hens. This is because skittish hens are more likely to perceive you as a threat and may peck at you more aggressively to defend their eggs or chicks. While this behavior makes them excellent mothers, fiercely guarding their chicks from predators, it can also result in chicks that are naturally more afraid and skittish around humans.

To mitigate this, spend time with the broody hen before her eggs hatch to help her stay accustomed to your presence. Friendlier hens that are used to people tend to be less aggressive when broody. Although they may still growl or puff up their feathers when you approach, they are less likely to peck or become overly defensive. These hens are generally more accepting of human interaction, even after their chicks hatch, making it easier to bond with the new arrivals.

Incubation and Hatching

The hen will handle most of the incubation process, so there’s usually little for you to worry about. During this time, she may pluck feathers from her breast or belly, exposing bare skin to better transfer heat to her eggs. Occasionally, you may notice her kicking an egg or two out of the nest. This is a natural behavior driven by her instincts—she likely senses that the egg is not viable or doesn’t belong in the nest anymore.

While broody hens may display some unusual behaviors, these actions are typically in the best interest of the chicks. However, if your broody hen belongs to a breed that rarely goes broody, monitor her closely. It’s wise to have a backup incubator on hand in case she abandons the nest or struggles to complete the incubation process. During her time in the incubation period, provide the hen with a feeder and waterer designed specifically for chicks. These smaller-sized feeders and waterers help her get accustomed to eating and drinking in her quiet, undisturbed space, free from interference by the other flock members.

Many people wonder if they should remove their hen from her nest during lockdown—the critical period a few days before the chicks begin to pip and hatch. Typically, a broody hen will leave her nest daily to eat, drink, and relieve herself. However, during the final three days of incubation, she may choose to remain on her nest full-time. On hatch day, it is normal for her not to leave the nest to eat or drink as she focuses entirely on her chicks during their hatching process. It’s important not to disturb the hen during this time, as her attention is essential for the health and safety of her hatching chicks.

Once the chicks begin hatching, the hen instinctively stays on the nest until most, if not all, of the chicks have hatched. However, if she decides to leave the nest with the already-hatched chicks and there are still unhatched or actively hatching eggs, carefully transfer those eggs to an incubator if you have one. Avoid attempting to “help” the chicks out of their shells, as this can be harmful to their survival. Once the remaining eggs hatch, allow the chicks to dry completely before returning them to the hen, ideally at night when it is dark.
If there is an egg that hasn’t hatched, candle it (use a bright light to check for movement or signs of life inside) to determine if the chick is still alive, has died, or if the egg is infertile. Cracking open unhatched eggs can sometimes provide clues about what went wrong, such as deformities or other issues that may have prevented the chick from surviving.
Don’t worry about feeding newly hatched chicks right away. They still have yolk reserves absorbed before hatching, which provide them with enough nourishment for the first 24 to 48 hours. This adaptation allows time for the other eggs to hatch, ensuring the hen can decide when it’s time to leave the nest with her brood.

Raising the Chicks

Once the hen feels enough of her chicks have hatched, she will guide them out of the nesting box and into the great outdoors. She will teach them how to eat, drink, and navigate their new world. At night, she will sit on them to keep them warm and cozy. The hen takes on the role of both teacher and protector, ensuring her chicks learn the basics of chicken life.

If at any point you feel the hen is struggling with her chicks, consider moving her and the chicks to a separate area away from the main flock until they are ready to rejoin. Some common reasons to temporarily separate them include:

The hen is starting to lose weight because she’s foraging less in order to keep her chicks warm.
The hen isn’t leaving her coop at all after all of her chicks have hatched.
The hen is not returning to the coop at night, putting both herself and her chicks at risk of predator attacks.
The chicks don’t appear to be growing, feel thin or lightweight, and are not thriving overall.
The chicks are chirping constantly and loudly, showing signs of distress and inability to be comforted.
One or more chicks have disappeared or been found dead.
The hen is leaving her chicks behind and not staying with them.
Flock members injuring or killing one or more of the hen’s chicks.
The hen is showing aggression towards her own chicks, attempting to harm or injure them.

If you find yourself needing to raise the chicks without the assistance of the hen, keep them in a warm brooder with a temperature of 98 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, as chicks cannot regulate their body temperature on their own. Every week, it’s recommended to decrease the temperature by 5 degrees as the chicks begin to grow their feathers. Provide the chicks with a proper chick starter feed to ensure they grow strong and healthy. Avoid feeding them layer crumbles, as the high calcium content can lead to kidney stones or failure, which can be fatal at an early age. Additionally, use a shallow chick waterer to prevent accidental drowning, as chicks can easily drown themselves or others if the water is too deep for them.

Once the chicks have grown most or all of their feathers, they can be gradually weaned off the artificial heat source, as they will be able to regulate their body temperature on their own at this stage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will my hen go broody?

It depends on the hen, breed, and individual circumstances. While any hen can go broody, some breeds are more prone to it than others. For example, breeds like Silkies and Cochins have a higher likelihood of becoming broody vs breeds like a Leghorn or Plymouth Barred Rock.
Production breeds like Isa Browns, Plymouth Barred Rocks, Leghorns, and Rhode Island Reds are among the least broody types of chickens. These breeds were specifically developed for egg production, and broodiness was intentionally bred out. While it’s not impossible for them to ever go broody, it’s highly unlikely.

How can I make my hen go broody? What causes broodiness?

Broodiness is driven by hormones, and there is little you can do to influence it. A hen will lay eggs daily or every other day until she feels that she is satisfied enough to form a clutch. Once her hormones signal that it’s time, she will shift into broody behavior and begin incubating the eggs.
Leaving eggs in the nest to encourage broodiness is often a waste of good eggs. If a hen is truly broody, she’ll sit on golf balls, rocks or even empty spaces, showing her want to incubate regardless of the presence of real eggs.

How can I tell if my hen is broody?

Basically, she’ll remain on the nest all the time. One day, she’ll be acting fine and socializing with the flock and she’ll be glued to the nest. This sudden change in behavior can be a bit concerning at first.
If you try to reach under her, she may growl or peck at your hand, defending herself and her nest from any disturbance.
The clearest sign that a hen is broody is if she’s sitting on the nest. Checking on her at night will confirm whether she’s truly broody, as she’ll remain sitting on the nest even after dark.
If all the signs add up—staying on the nest day and night, fluffing up her feathers, becoming grumpy, growling or making unusual clucking sounds when disturbed, and pecking at your hands—then it’s a clear indication that she is broody.

Should I move her to a separate pen or leave her where she is?

It is recommended to move the broody hen to her own space for safety— a dog crate, rabbit cage, old brooder box, etc would work great.
Moving a broody hen can be risky, as it might break her out of her broody behavior, so it’s important to weigh the risks. It’s best to move her at night while she’s sleeping to minimize the chances of her abandoning her nest.
Leaving a broody hen with the rest of the flock can lead to several problems. She may be bullied, kicked off her nest or even attacked by another broody hen who wants to claim the eggs as her own. Sometimes dominant hens may peck at her eggs, breaking them and eating the developing chicks. In some cases, broody hens have been found dead because other flock members peck them to death, leaving the eggs to chill and die. Chicks can also go missing in a flock, getting lost, stuck, or even taken by predators if left unsupervised.
If you have a small group of laid-back hens or limited space, you might have success leaving the broody hen in her nest. Be sure to mark the eggs she’s brooding on, so if other hens lay eggs in her nest, you can remove them. This helps ensure that only the broody hen’s eggs remain for incubation.

I never see her eating or drinking, what should I do?

Broody hens typically leave the nest only once a day to eat, drink and relieve themselves. They usually do this when you’re not around to protect both themselves and their eggs from potential threats.
Some new chicken owners may try to pick up their broody hens to make them get up and eat, but it’s best to avoid doing this, as it disrupts them and can cause unnecessary stress.

Do broody hens lay eggs when they’re broody?

No, if your hen is still laying eggs, she is not truly broody. Hens typically stop laying once they go broody and won’t resume laying until their chicks are ready to be independant and on their own.

How long will she sit?

This depends on the hen. Some can sit for months, determined to hatch chicks, while others may only stay broody for about three weeks. You won’t know how long your broody hen will last until you give her some eggs and let her try.
Hens can’t count, she’ll only sit on as many as she feels is enough for her.